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- W10079313 abstract "The statistical behaviour of bound long waves is deduced from numerical simulations carried out starting from local spectra derived from deep-water directional spectra. The investigation refers both to the time and space domains, in the direction of the wave fronts, that is, alongshore if a normal attack towards a uniform beach is considered. The values of the heights, periods and front lengths of the bound long waves are obtained and compared to those of the nonlinear waves associated with the complete 2nd-order local spectra. The influence of the directional energy spreading is examined, which seems to affect the periods and lengths of the wave fronts more than the heights of the bound long waves. The numerical results of the analysis carried out in a coastal region and illustrated here with reference to field cases taken from Bowers (1992) show the following: The energy density of the bound long waves increases as the depth decreases, being, in any case, about 10% of the local energy density associated with the complete 2nd-order spectra; the spectral mean periods referring to the bound long waves exhibit an increasing trend in decreasing depths; and finally, the characteristic lengths of the wave fronts assume quite the same values whatever the depth. This last result suggests that the beach configuration induced by the bound long waves is affected by the features exhibited by the bound long waves in approaching the coastal region, which depend on the deep-water wave climate rather than the modifications experienced during their propagation shoreward." @default.
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- W10079313 date "2006-09-01" @default.
- W10079313 modified "2023-10-18" @default.
- W10079313 title "Statistical Behaviour of Directional Bound Long Waves" @default.
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