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- W1499857583 abstract "Overproduction of sebum is very common and results in an undesirable oily, shiny complexion with enlarged pores. Sebum secretion is basically under the control of 5-α reductase, and more particularly under that of type 1 isozyme. But it is also highly sensitive to environmental factors such as temperature, humidity and food. Moreover, in Asia, the edicts of a flawless facial skin turn oily skin into a major concern for Asian women. We identified Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract as an interesting ingredient for reducing the oily appearance of skin thanks to its ability to reduce 5-α reductase type 1 expression in normal human epidermal keratinocytes in vitro. This was confirmed ex vivo, where Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract was shown to reduce 5-α reductase activity as well as the production of squalene, one of the main components of sebum that was used as a tracer of sebum. To evaluate the efficacy of Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract at reducing sebum-related skin imperfections in vivo, we performed two different clinical studies, one in France on a panel of Caucasian volunteers and the other one in Thailand on a panel of Asian volunteers. Using instrumental techniques as well as clinical evaluation and self-evaluation, we could highlight that an O/W cosmetic formula containing 2% of Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract could visibly reduce the oily appearance of skin as well as the size of pores, thus leading to a significant improvement of complexion evenness and radiance. Overall, the results obtained were better than those observed with the same formula containing 1% of zinc gluconate, an ingredient frequently used in oily skin care products. La surproduction de sébum est très courante et se traduit par une peau à l’aspect gras, brillant et des pores élargis. La sécrétion de sébum est au départ sous le contrôle de la 5-α réductase, et plus particulièrement sous celui de l’isozyme de type 1. Mais elle est également très sensible aux facteurs environnementaux tels que la température, l’humidité ou l’alimentation. Par ailleurs, en Asie, où l’idéal d’une peau immaculée fait loi, la peau grasse est une préoccupation majeure pour les femmes. Nous avons identifiéOrthosiphon stamineus leaf extract comme un ingrédient intéressant en vue de réduire l’aspect gras de la peau grâce à sa capacitéà réduire in vitro l’expression de la 5-α reductase de type 1 dans des kératinocytes humains normaux. Cet effet a été confirméex vivo où nous avons pu montrer que Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extract permettait de réduire l’activité 5-α reductase ainsi que la production de squalène, l’un des principaux composants du sébum utilisé ici comme traceur du sébum. Pour évaluer la capacité d’Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extractà réduire in vivo les imperfections liées à la production excessive de sébum, nous avons réalisé deux études cliniques, l’une en France sur un panel de type Caucasien, l’autre en Thaïlande sur un panel de type asiatique. Par des mesures instrumentales ainsi que par une évaluation clinique et une auto-évaluation, nous avons pu montrer qu’une formule cosmétique H/E contenant Orthosiphon stamineus leaf extractà 2% permettait de réduire visiblement l’apparence brillante de la peau ainsi que la taille des pores, menant ainsi à un teint plus homogène et éclatant. D’une façon générale, les résultats obtenus avec une telle formule étaient meilleurs que ceux observés avec la même formule contenant 1% de gluconate de zinc, un ingrédient fréquemment utilisé dans les produits cosmétiques pour peau grasse." @default.
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- W1499857583 date "2010-08-30" @default.
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- W1499857583 title "On the effects of a plant extract of Orthosiphon stamineus on sebum-related skin imperfections" @default.
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- W1499857583 doi "https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2010.00581.x" @default.
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