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• W1505138346 abstract "This thesis considers the refraction and diffraction of both linear and nonlinear waves. In the first part, a linear numerical model based on the dual reciprocity boundary element method (DRBEM) is presented for the study of combined diffraction and refraction of linear waves. This model is more general than that presented by Zhu (1993a) in the sense that areas or coastlines where the water depth is zero can be successfully dealt with. Our comparison study shows that the new model is very accurate for the propagation of long waves such as tsunamis. Moreover, it is numeri- cally very efficient in comparison with models based on finite elements or differences. Using the new model, the interaction between the diffractive and refractive effects is examined. In the second part, a numerical model is developed by expanding the Boussinesq equations using a perturbation method and the DRBEM. Based on the assumption that the incident waves are harmonic, the time-dependent nonlinear Boussinesq equa- tions are transformed into three time-independent linear equations, where no approx- imation for the seabed slope is made. Then the first-order solution rjo is found as the solution of the linear shallow-water equation. The first-order solution is then used in the governing equations at second-order. By employing a transformation, all the third-order and the fourth-order partial derivatives of rjo in the right-hand sides are" @default.
• W1505138346 created "2016-06-24" @default.
• W1505138346 creator A5034269062 @default.
• W1505138346 date "2001-01-01" @default.
• W1505138346 modified "2023-09-27" @default.
• W1505138346 title "Numerical modelling of the propagation of ocean waves" @default.
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