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• W1597508209 abstract "Of all the food products that entered the European consumer market as a result of colonial trade, chocolate underwent the most dramatic differentiation from its original form. In Aztec society chocolate was drunk cold, spicy and bitter. So why in the mid-nineteenth century did Europeans turn it into something sweet, sticky, creamy, and solid? The answer to this question lies in an analysis of the physical and symbolic resemblance of chocolate to excrement: that other brown substance that was of such great concern and fascination for European society of the nineteenth century. The contemporaneous emergence of solid eating chocolate as a coveted consumer object alongside the development of sewerage and toilet technology in nineteenth-century Europe was not incidental. Both relate to the development of a new identity amongst middle-class Europeans who were keen to enjoy the exotic delights of colonial produce as much as they were to deny and sanitize the excretory process in response to the crisis of malodorous bodily products produced by industrial urbanization. Both the deodorized sewers of mid century urbanization policies (particularly in Paris and London), and the availability of fragrant, sweet and pungent consumables from colonial trade, were pivotal in establishing a European bourgeois identity that counterpoised itself to the excrement-eating primitives from whom chocolate and its compound ingredients had been stolen.This article will show that throughout the late modern era chocolate has been repeatedly associated, both explicitly and symbolically, with excrement. While excretory and anal repression were seen as central to the construction of European identity in a range of late-nineteenth-century texts concerned with differentiating primitive from civilized Man, chocolate was viewed as a consumer symbol of the gold, wealth, luxury, and new class hierarchies purchased through slavery and colonial exploitation in Africa and the Americas. Chocolate then was the symbolic byproduct of the process by which the European consumer classes domesticated the appropriation of wealth from colonial endeavors and controlled excretory processes in construction of the urban sanitary order. This article will discuss how chocolate was mythologized and marketed initially as an exotic aphrodisiac, then infantalized during the nineteenth century, then—from the fin de siecle to the present—constructed as the ultimate and most appropriate gift between lovers.Through this analysis I argue that chocolate has consistently appeared as a symbol of the primitive within the civilized, as the child-like, the sexual, the fetishized, the excremental, which European societies have harnessed, channeled, and transmuted throughout the process of urban sanitization." @default.
• W1597508209 created "2016-06-24" @default.
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• W1597508209 date "2005-01-01" @default.
• W1597508209 modified "2023-09-23" @default.
• W1597508209 title "Kakao and kaka: Chocolate and the excretory imagination of nineteenth-century Europe" @default.
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