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- W2000442657 abstract "It is shown theoretically that the crest of a steep, irrotational gravity wave, considered in isolation, is unstable. There exists just one basic mode of instability, whose exponential rate of growth β equals 0.123(g / R ) ½ , where g denotes gravity and R is the radius of curvature at the undisturbed crest. A volume of water near the crest is shifted towards the forward face of the wave; the ‘toe’ of the instability is at a horizontal distance 0.45 R ahead of the crest. The instability may represent the initial stage of a spilling breaker. On small scales, the ‘toe’ may be a source of parasitic capillary waves." @default.
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- W2000442657 date "1994-01-10" @default.
- W2000442657 modified "2023-10-14" @default.
- W2000442657 title "Crest instabilities of gravity waves. Part 1. The almost-highest wave" @default.
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- W2000442657 doi "https://doi.org/10.1017/s0022112094003265" @default.
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