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- W2019098511 abstract "Wave staffs and electromagnetic current meters were deployed on a profile across a two-bar system at Wendake Beach, southern Georgian Bay. This paper examines spatial and temporal changes in the characteristics of wave form, and the spectra of surface elevation and on-offshore current motion, during one storm. Non-linear effects of wave shoaling and breaking across the bars result in the appearance of secondary waves and both the wave and on-offshore current spectra have significant harmonic peaks during most of the storm. Significant low-frequency energy occurs only during the peak of the storm. While the peak frequency remains constant across the bar system, the proportion of energy in the primary peak is greatest in the troughs and lowest over the bar crests and there are similar changes in the proportion of energy in the first harmonic. However, in both surface elevation spectra and on-offshore current spectra, the greatest proportion of energy is found in frequencies related to the incident wind waves." @default.
- W2019098511 created "2016-06-24" @default.
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- W2019098511 date "1984-08-01" @default.
- W2019098511 modified "2023-09-26" @default.
- W2019098511 title "Spatial and temporal variations in spectra of storm waves across a barred nearshore" @default.
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- W2019098511 doi "https://doi.org/10.1016/0025-3227(84)90142-7" @default.
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