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- W2168153843 abstract "Abstract : The knowledge of the two-dimensional spectra of surface waves is essential to the problem of the wave generating mechanism by winds, and to the related problem of wave forecasting. It is important to the understanding of coastal phenomena, and consequently to the design of coastal works. The author studied a method of determining the two-dimensional spectra of sea surface waves using the records of a pressure type wave recorder and the record of a special wave force meter which can record X and Y component wave force acting on a sphere in the sea. One set of data was analyzed by the method described, to obtain the approximate two-dimensional spectral density. In addition, the value of C sub D and C sub M in the conventional wave force formula for the sphere were obtained as a function of component wave frequency. (Author)" @default.
- W2168153843 created "2016-06-24" @default.
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- W2168153843 date "1968-08-01" @default.
- W2168153843 modified "2023-09-23" @default.
- W2168153843 title "DETERMINATION OF APPROXIMATE DIRECTIONAL SPECTRA FOR SURFACE WAVES" @default.
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