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- W2218693173 abstract "Mathematical modelling of coastal processes are presented particularly of nearshore wave transformation and beach evolution. The wave models are briefly mentioned only in the relevance to the beach models, including a time-dependent mild-slope random wave equation, a parabolic equation and a Boussinesq equation, all of which involve the breaker-induced energy dissipation terms. The beach models include a conventional H2D model, a hybrid H2D model and a beach profile model. The hybrid model is the one combining the H2D model and a one-line model, enabling us to predict beach topography change together with the shoreline change. The beach profile model covers the wave deformation and beach profile change in the surf and swash zones. Examples of their applications are shown and compared with measurements either in laboratories or in field to demonstrate their validity. The paper also describes the importance of the multi-directional wave randomness and the sheet flow sand transport in the coastal processes." @default.
- W2218693173 created "2016-06-24" @default.
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- W2218693173 date "1997-01-01" @default.
- W2218693173 modified "2023-09-27" @default.
- W2218693173 title "Mathematical Models for Wave Deformation and Beach Evolution" @default.
- W2218693173 hasPublicationYear "1997" @default.
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