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- W2327265004 abstract "A coastal profile consisting of sand is continuously being modified by the action of the incoming waves, particularly in the surf and breaker zone, where bars can be built up, shifted about or leveled out by the wave-induced cross-shore sediment transport. Prediction of the profile development is important because its shape determines the wave decay and because its development is an integral part of the coastal erosion process. Further, the shape of the profile is important for the distribution and the magnitude of the longshore current and sediment transport, which is also a key factor in the coastal erosion or accretion. A considerable research effort has been made on the processes of cross-shore transport, but it has proven to be difficult to quantify because the mean cross-shore discharge is zero and the transport is composed of several opposing contributions that may be of the same order of magnitude. Outside the surf zone many contributions related to non-linear effects in the wave boundary layer have been identified, such as: streaming in the boundary layer, drift of suspended sediment, effects of higher harmonics in the wave orbital motion and effects related to wave groups and bound or free long waves. In the surf zone the energy dissipation due to wave breaking is dominant in the processes governing the wave driven circulation and the cross-shore sediment transport. The wave breaking causes a relatively strong offshore-directed flow near the bed the undertow, Dally and Dean (1984), Svendsen (1984), Deigaard et al (1991)," @default.
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- W2327265004 date "2001-03-23" @default.
- W2327265004 modified "2023-10-05" @default.
- W2327265004 title "Beach Profile Evolution due to Oblique Wave Attack" @default.
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- W2327265004 doi "https://doi.org/10.1061/40549(276)235" @default.
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