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• W2364373908 abstract "Raman spectroscopy has received an increased amount of attention in the field of skin research. This technique bears potential as a promising non-destructive tool for diverse skin applications such as diagnosis of pathological states, measurement of skin hydration level and distribution of physiological components in skin. The option of depth profiling is of special interest, as it provides valuable information regarding drug delivery efficiency and risk assessment 1. As surfactants are chief ingredients of personal care products and appear as excipients of common dermal drug delivery systems, their skin penetration is of particular interest. In particular, anionic surfactants, such as SDS, are well-known irritant and might damage the skin 2. Without the protective barrier of the stratum corneum, damaged or diseased skin represents a potentially deficient barrier and drugs, chemicals or ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products may be absorbed more readily and the risk for an induced irritation is even higher 3, 4. As SDS also appears in creams intended to be used in the treatment of dry skin and eczema 5, investigation of the percutaneous absorption of this surfactant into damaged skin is of great interest. Due to a sequential removal of stratum corneum layers with adhesive tapes, tape stripping induces a disruption of the skin barrier and can therefore by applied for controllable stratum corneum damage 6. There is an ongoing search for suitable non-invasive approaches to evaluate the percutaneous absorption of topically applied substances. The absorption of SDS into intact and damaged skin as well as its effect on skin hydration levels in vitro was therefore monitored by confocal Raman spectroscopy. Experiments were performed on full-thickness porcine ear skin in vitro, as pig skin represents an excellent, easily accessible model for the human counterpart 7. About 10 mg/cm2 of a 15% (w/w) aqueous SDS solution was applied to either intact or tape-stripped skin (later referred to as damaged skin) and incubated for 2 h. Untreated (no water applied) control skin samples were also measured after 2 h. A damaged skin barrier was simulated by removal of 30 tape strips (Corneofix®, Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany). Tape strips were analysed for amount of corneocytes by NIR densitometry (SquameScan® 850A, Heiland electronic GmbH, Wetzlar, Germany). Confocal Raman spectroscopy measurements were carried out using a RiverDiagnostics gen2-SCA Skin Composition Analyzer (RiverDiagnostics, Rotterdam, Netherlands) equipped with two lasers at wavelengths of 671 nm and 785 nm and a CCD detector. Data were analysed using SkinTools® software version 2.0. Water profiles were measured in 2 μm steps up to a depth of 40 μm. Raman spectra in the fingerprint region for determination of SDS penetration into the skin were recorded in 4 μm steps up to a depth of 40 μm using an exposure time of 5 s. At least three individual experiments for each treatment were performed (n ≥ 3), and each profile was measured on three to five different locations per sample. The water content was determined by a comparison of the Raman intensities of the CH and OH stretching vibrations. Depth profiles of SDS were established with the help of a software-provided least squares fitting algorithm, which is based on a set of built-in model skin spectra. The SDS Raman spectrum required for the fitting algorithm was acquired by recording a Raman spectrum of a 15% aqueous SDS solution and a subsequent subtraction of a pure water spectrum. Variations of absolute signal intensity were considered by an internal normalization. It was possible to monitor the distribution of SDS in intact and damaged skin samples using confocal Raman spectroscopy. SDS was absorbed in a significantly higher amount by damaged skin compared to intact skin (P < 0.05; t-test) (Fig. 1). NIR measurements of the amount of corneocytes per tape confirmed that nearly the entire stratum corneum (~12 μm) was removed with the applied 30 sequential tape strips, which was also confirmed by the water profile measurements in Fig. 2. Water profiles of the non-tape-stripped skin samples represent typical profiles of intact skin with low water content in the uppermost layer, the lipophilic stratum corneum, and an increasing amount of water in the aqueous epidermis 8. While water profiles of untreated and SDS-treated intact skin samples were comparable, beforehand tape-stripped skin samples showed lower skin hydration levels in the epidermis, although this difference did not reach statistical significance (P > 0.05; ANOVA with post hoc Tukey test). Interestingly, the SDS-treated damaged skin samples showed lower skin hydration levels as the untreated damaged skin samples, although an aqueous solution of SDS was applied compared to no applied water in the untreated samples. Surfactants are known to destroy the skin's integrity which is associated with changes in barrier hydration levels, thus leading to conditions such as tightness of skin or dry skin conditions after cleansing 9. Different mechanisms of how SDS causes an impaired water permeability barrier are discussed. It seems likely that factors other than delipidation of the stratum corneum lead to SDS induced skin irritation. The theory of possible alterations in deeper layers of the epidermis, for example damage of nucleated cells or direct interaction with protein structures, would be supported by the findings of the present study, as skin hydration was more affected in skin samples where the stratum corneum was missing and an absorption of SDS into deeper layers of the skin was significantly facilitated 4. While the results of this ex vivo study revealed no significant changes after application of SDS on intact skin, a possible damaging effect of SDS could be detected in skin samples where the stratum corneum is missing. As the current methodology represents an acute effect ex vivo study, a repeated-insult in vivo study would be of great interest to investigate SDS toxicity in patients. Although Mao et al. 2 already investigated the distribution of SDS in ex vivo skin, our presented approach can be adapted to in clinical settings, as the used Raman instrument is optimized for in vivo analysis of skin. Future studies based on this methodology could therefore easily determine the effect of SDS on normal, diseased, damaged or dry skin in a non-invasively, straightforward manner. Financial support of the research platform ‘Characterisation of drug delivery systems on skin and investigations of involved mechanism’ (University of Vienna, Austria) is acknowledged. CV and MH designed the research study; MH, KK and MC performed the research; MH and DB analysed the data; MH wrote the paper. The authors have no conflicts of interest to declare." @default.
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• W2364373908 date "2016-03-08" @default.
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• W2364373908 title "The effect of a damaged skin barrier on percutaneous absorption of SDS and skin hydration investigated by confocal Raman spectroscopy" @default.
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• W2364373908 doi "https://doi.org/10.1111/exd.12950" @default.
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