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- W2392442255 abstract "Nearshore currents due to the action of breaking w aves are a main dynamic factor of sediment transport and pollutant dispersion in the coastal areas. So over the last two decades, a great many numerical models have been developed to compute the nearshore currents. However, most of these mo dels are based on the regular wave theory. In order to describe the nearshore cu rrents more accurately, it is necessary to take into account the effects of wave irregularity. The aim of the study is to present a numerical model of the nearshore currents i nduced by irregular waves. In this model, by means of a time-dependent mild slop e equation, the random wave fields in terms of directional spectra are firstly d etermined to simulate the deformation of irregular waves due to wave refraction, diffraction and breaking. Then, the radiation stress fields are obtained by the numerical integration of the directional spectra with respect to wave direction s and frequency. finally, the velocity fields of nearshore currents are calculat ed by use of depth and one wave period averaged two-dimensional equations. it is seen from the calculation that the magnitude of nearshore currents is closely r elated to the incident wave height and direction in addition to the bottom topog raphy." @default.
- W2392442255 created "2016-06-24" @default.
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- W2392442255 date "2000-01-01" @default.
- W2392442255 modified "2023-09-25" @default.
- W2392442255 title "Numerical Modelling of Nearshore Currents Induced by Irregular Waves" @default.
- W2392442255 hasPublicationYear "2000" @default.
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