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- W2412693834 abstract "There is something rather arresting about the inside of a medieval church in mid-winter. The air is cold and still, and the silence has a different quality within the deep stone walls. The grey half-light falls on flagstones worn smooth by the thousand year cohort who have been there before you. It is impossible not to feel transient.In the winter I tour around these Cotswold churches on my mountain bike feeding my pineal gland on the morsels of sunlight. My family, who occasionally accompany me in the summer, fall away at the merest hint of frost. Medical friends who will put up with a eulogy about a Norman crypt are rare and need to be booked in advance. Consequently I often go touring on my own. It is a pilgrimage through the centuries that gets me out of the house and out of an age.The unexpected thing is the riches that you tumble across in these open, deserted little churches. In Daglingworth there are simple white Saxon carvings set in the walls. The rather stark figures were cut out of the stone at a time when the villagers were still fighting off Vikings. A few years ago I met an elderly German couple in the church. They explained that the crucifixion carving was done in a style found only in Syria in the ninth and tenth centuries. What was a sculptor from Syria doing in the tiny village of Daglingworth a thousand years ago?A few muddy miles up the valley the tiny Saxon church of Duntisbourne Rouse sits on a steeply sloping site above a flooded stream. In the churchyard the table tomb of John Jeffries, died 12 September 1611, bears a lament from his wife. Of their union: “One half lives. Alas why lives it longer. It lives to make my grief and sorrow stronger.”The trouble about churches is that, like medicine, they are mostly about births, marriages, and deaths, and it is only the latter that leave the monuments. But even death is not unremittingly maudlin. In Kempsford church there is an epitaph for an Irish Regency peer called Coleraine. He had clearly led a colourful life, and he wished to be buried inside the church because he was afraid that the devil would get him if he was buried in the earth. His indulgent epitaph suggests he paid quite a lot for the privilege. “He was,” it states, “as good a Christian as his frail nature would allow.”" @default.
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- W2412693834 date "2004-03-06" @default.
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- W2412693834 title "Soundings: Cotswold churches" @default.
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