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• W2547352581 abstract "In this paper we develop an analytical theory for the interaction between waves and currents induced by breaking waves on time-scales longer than the individual waves. We employed the waveaveraging procedure that is commonly used in the literature. The near-shore zone is often characterized by the presence of breaking waves. Hence we develop equations to be used outside the surf zone, based on small-amplitude wave theory, and another set of equations to be used inside the surf zone, based on an empirical representation of breaking waves. Suitable matching conditions are applied at the boundary between the offshore shoaling zone and the near-shore surf zone. Essentially we derive a model for the interaction between waves and currents. Both sets of equation are obtained by averaging the basic equations over the wave phase. Thus the analytical solution constructed is a free vortex defined in both shoaling and surf zones. The surf zone solution is perturbed by a longshore component of the current. Thus the presence of the rip current cell combined with the longshore modulation in the wave forcing can drive longshore currents along the beach. The outcome, for our set of typical beach profile, is a description of rip currents." @default.
• W2547352581 created "2016-11-11" @default.
• W2547352581 creator A5072586166 @default.
• W2547352581 date "2013-01-01" @default.
• W2547352581 modified "2023-09-23" @default.
• W2547352581 title "Modelling the rip current flow on a quadratic beach profile" @default.
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• W2547352581 hasPublicationYear "2013" @default.
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