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• W2611446209 abstract "Surface and internal gravity waves have an important impact on the hydrological regime ofthe coastal zone. Intensive surface waves are particularly interesting to study because they canbe a serious threat to ships, oil platforms, port facilities and tourist areas on the coast; suchwaves hampered the implementation of human activities on the shelf. Nonlinear internal wavesaffect the underwater biosphere and cause sediment transport, they create washouts soil at thebase of platforms and pipelines, affect the propagation of acoustic signals. Freak waves have aparticularly strong impact, and they are studied in this thesis. Therefore, the study of freak waveformation in the coastal zone is relevant and practically significant.The main goal of the thesis is the study of particularities of abnormal wave formation incoastal zones under different assumptions on the water depth and wave field form. In particular,it is demonstrated that the mechanism of dispersion focusing of freak wave formation worksfor waves interacting with a vertical barrier. It is shown that just before the maximum waveformation a freak wave quickly changes its shape from a high ridge to a deep depression.Lifetime of freak wave increases with the growth of number of individual waves in anomalouswave packet, and lifetime of freak wave increases with water depth decreasing.It is demonstrated that pair interaction of unipolar solitons leads to decrease of the thirdand fourth moments of the wave field. It is shown that in the case of heteropolar solitoninteraction the fourth moment increases.The nonlinear dynamics of ensembles of random unipolar solitons in the framework of theKorteweg - de Vries equation and the modified Korteweg - de Vries equation is studied. It isshown that the coefficients of skewness and kurtosis of the soliton gas are reduced as a resultof soliton collision, the distribution function of wave amplitudes are defined. The behavior ofsoliton fields in the framework of these models is qualitatively similar. It is shown that in thesefields the amplitude of the big waves is decreased in average due to multi-soliton interactions.A new braking effect of soliton with a small amplitude and even changing of its direction inmulti-soliton gas as a result of nonlinear interaction with other solitons is found in the frameworkof the modified Korteweg-de Vries equation.It is shown that in heteropolar soliton gas abnormally big waves (freak waves) appear inthe frameworks of the modified Korteweg - de Vries equation. With increasing of soliton gasdensity the probability and intensity of freak waves in such systems increases." @default.
• W2611446209 created "2017-05-12" @default.
• W2611446209 creator A5012096400 @default.
• W2611446209 date "2015-04-22" @default.
• W2611446209 modified "2023-09-25" @default.
• W2611446209 title "Dynamics of irregular wave ensembles in the coastal zone" @default.
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