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- W2797539366 abstract "The interaction of waves and currents in the near-shore zone is an area of continuing researchwhere interest derives in particular as a result of various environmental effects from naturalphenomena such as storm surges and tsunamis.On time scales longer than that of an individual wave it is necessary to properly evaluate theinteraction between waves and currents, using a consistent formulation of mass, momentumand energy within the water column. We describe the formulation of equations describing themean current flow, driven by the radiation stress field of the waves, an equation for the meanconservation of mass, together with equations describing the conservation of wave action andthe kinematics of the averaged wave field. The near-shore zone is often characterized by thepresence of breaking waves, and so we develop equations to be used outside the surf zone,based on small-amplitude wave theory, and another set of equations to be used inside the surfzone, based on an empirical representation of breaking waves. Suitable matching conditionsare applied at the boundary between the offshore shoaling zone and the near-shore surf zone.Both sets of equation are obtained by averaging the basic equations over the wave phase. Inthe shoaling zone, we supplement these equations by a simple model of sediment transport,where the bottom is allowed to move in response to the current field of the breaking waves.We use these basic equation sets to re-evaluate previous studies of wave set-up and longshorecurrents driven by the radiation stress field of the shoaling waves. In particular we extend previous work based on beach profiles with a linear depth dependence to more general beachprofiles, including beaches with a depth dependence which varies quadratically with theonshore coordinate, and to beach profiles which approach a constant depth far offshore.We then turn to a situation where the incoming shoaling waves vary periodically in thealongshore direction, and use our basic equation sets to construct a mean current field whichlikewise varies periodically in the alongshore direction. The outcome, for our set of typicalbeach profiles, is a description of rip currents. The last part of the thesis examines .a simplemodel of sediment transport, induced by breaking waves in the surf zone. We show that theprevious solutions for wave set-up and longshore currents now become time-dependent asthe nearshore zone is eroded by the waves." @default.
- W2797539366 created "2018-04-24" @default.
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- W2797539366 date "2008-01-01" @default.
- W2797539366 modified "2023-09-28" @default.
- W2797539366 title "The interaction between waves and currents in the nearshore zone." @default.
- W2797539366 hasPublicationYear "2008" @default.
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