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- W289336222 abstract "Washington Irving's Sketch Book shares forms, themes, and functions with some new arts of its time, those of preparing, enjoying, and writing about food. Thus Sketch Book comments upon and exemplifies a new sort of production that provokes rather than satisfies wish consume. But one cannot fully understand cultural practices unless [...] elaborated taste for most refined objects is reconnected with elementary taste for flavours of food. Pierre Bourdieu, Distinction ********** Washington Irving's Sketch Book of Geoffrey Crayon, Gent. exemplifies as well as comments on incipient consumer culture of its day. Sketch Book shares informing motive with new art of consuming food, formal elements with products of new arts of preparing food, and formal and thematic elements with new literature of food, specifically Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin's Physiology of Taste. sharing these elements with these other artifacts of consumer culture, Sketch Book takes part in a new economy in which produces a sort of production that provokes rather than satisfies wish consume. Sketch Book gives us many images of food and drink. For example, Rip Van Winkle shares liquor with the grave roysters of mountain (776). Irving's narrator, Geoffrey Crayon, regrets passing of hot ribbes of beef rosted [sic], pies well baked and other victuals of a bygone merry East cheap, [...] ancient region of wit and wassail (The Boar's Head Tavern, Sketch 845). And he proffers abundant images of food and drink in sketches of Christmas at Bracebridge Hall. Like a multi-course meal rather than a single dish, Sketch Book is a sequence of separate parts. Each part may enhance others, especially in order in which they are presented, but all parts could be (and have been) enjoyed out of context of others. Hence Sketch Book resembles products of new culinary virtuosity. Irving published Sketch Book in 1820, when chefs were first becoming recognized as artists. In same way that social roles of composers, writers and artists were transformed by emergence of literary and cultural publics, so was that of at least elite of cooks by creation of a culinary public (Mennell 142). Born only a year after Irving, Antonin Careme, a great chef who himself wrote books from 1815 1835, set ideological pattern as well as a culinary model for French cooks in nineteenth century (143-45). Sketch Book also has affinities with art of appreciating food and drink. This art, gastronomy, is a type of what Stephen Mennell calls virtuoso consumption (111). With virtuoso preparation and presentation of food, virtuoso of food was burgeoning as Irving wrote Sketch Book. The mid-1820s were a time of intense interest in food and restaurants, and word 'gastronomy' was on everyone's lips (MacDonogh 5). With Alexandre-Balthazar-Laurent Grimod de la Reyniere, Brillat-Savarin, who published Physiology of Taste in 1825, effectively founded whole genre of gastronomic essay (Mennell 267). Sketch Book and Brillat-Savarin's Physiology of Taste share themes and formal affinities with culinary arts and their products. Charles Monselet calls Brillat-Savarin's book a chef-like attempt to please by cutting up pieces in small and attractive mouthfuls (xviii). Balzac described it as an olla-podrida which defies analysis (qtd. in MacDonogh 208). Like Irving, Brillat-Savarin describes his own book as a series of edible pieces: I have remembered many things which seemed worth setting down on paper: anecdotes hitherto unknown public, witticisms born under my very eyes, recipes of highest distinction, and other similar hors-d'oeuvres (295). …" @default.
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- W289336222 date "2002-06-01" @default.
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- W289336222 title "The Tasteful Traveller: Irving's the Sketch Book and the Gustatory Self" @default.
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