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- W2904480336 abstract "Thetheoryofthewaterwavesisthemainsubjectincoastalhydro- dynamics and plays a significant role in applied mathematics and in physics. In these notes we present the basics of the water wave theory. Specifically, after introducing briefly the basic concepts of continuum mechanics, we derive the physical laws describing the physics of an inviscid, incompressible fluid, namely the Euler equations. Euler equations are the governing equations of water waves, but because of the great difficulties in the theoretical and nu- merical studies of these equations, simple, approximate mathematical models have been derived instead. The models are usually simplified so as to be valid for specific types of waves.Water waves are usually divided into categories de- pending on the magnitude of their amplitude and their wavelength compared to the water depth. Some waves such as the Tsunami waves are generated in the deep ocean as waves of small amplitude with large wavelength, but as they approach the shoreline they grow in amplitude while their wavelength is decreased. Here, we will derive models for long waves with or without using the small amplitude assumption." @default.
- W2904480336 created "2018-12-22" @default.
- W2904480336 creator A5011233299 @default.
- W2904480336 date "2013-03-27" @default.
- W2904480336 modified "2023-09-23" @default.
- W2904480336 title "A simple introduction to water waves" @default.
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- W2904480336 hasPublicationYear "2013" @default.
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