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• W2915698821 abstract "This study showed that, in spite of annual and intra-annual forcing, interannual frequencies explained over 70% of the temporal morphologic variability observed at a beach near Duck, NC. Dominant interannual variability is not consistent with most existing conceptual models, which predict morphologic response at the same time scale as the forcing. Forcing and response at the same time scale is hypothesized to result from a feedback mechanism which drives nearshore morphology toward an equilibrium state. This thesis evaluated this hypothesis and its application to prediction of the migration, growth, and decay of surf zone sand bars. The role that morphologic feedback played in goveming sand bar response was described, focusing on the alongshore-uniform component ofthe nearshore morphology (i.e., cross-shore profiles), extracted from monthly bathymetric surveys. The alongshore-uniform component explained between 50 and 90% of the temporal variability of the surveyed bathymetry. A model was formulated to predict changes in sand bar crest position. The model assumed that sand bars migrated toward a wave height dependent equilibrium position. Interannual variability was predicted to result from transient response if the bar response time was long relative to the time scale of the forcing. Dependence of the bar response time on wave height enhanced the transient response, driving bars formed near the shore toward the outer extent of the surf zone. The model did not incorporate a mechanism for introducing transients. The model predictions of changes in bar crest positions were consistent with observations. The estimated equilibrium position suggested that bars migrated toward a break point. The response time, determined empirically, increased inversely with the wave height cubed. Sediment transport pattems associated with bar migration and growth were estimated by modeling the observed, alongshore-averaged profiles with a simple morphologic model consisting of a plane beach and Gaussian-shaped bars. Sediment transport pattems responsible for changes in bar position and amplitude were related to hydrodynamic conditions at bar crests. The ratio of wave height to water depth at the bar crest (Ycrest) parameterized the hydrodynamic conditions. A value of ycrest corresponding to the onset of wave breaking divided conditions associated with onshore migration from offshore migration. Bar migration tended to drive Ycrest toward the value associated with the onset of wave breaking, again suggesting an equilibrium bar position corresponding to a break point. Surprisingly, when the bar migration direction changed from onshore to offshore, the spatial variability of sediment transport over a bar length increased monotonically as Ycrest increased. Thus, the feedback mechanism associated with the observed bar response differed from the hypothesized mechanism, which was expected to drive transport to zero at equilibrium." @default.
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• W2915698821 date "1998-04-17" @default.
• W2915698821 modified "2023-09-23" @default.
• W2915698821 title "The role of morphologic feedback in surf zone sand bar response" @default.
• W2915698821 hasPublicationYear "1998" @default.
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