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- W3022971655 abstract "Waves may occur at fluid interfaces when gravity or surface tension provides a restoring force that pushes a deformed surface back toward its equilibrium position. The general formulation of the surface wave problem is nonlinear, even when the flow is inviscid. An appropriate linearization for small surface slope leads to traveling-wave solutions that are dispersive in deep water and nondispersive in shallow water. In particular, the phase and group speeds of deep-water gravity waves are different and both depend on wavelength with longer waves traveling faster. In shallow water, gravity-wave phase and group speeds are equal and depend on the depth of the water in which they travel. The complexity of the situation increases when the waves are nonlinear, when they occur between fluid layers of differing density, and when they occur on density gradients within a stratified fluid. In the latter case, the phase and group velocities are not even in the same direction." @default.
- W3022971655 created "2020-05-13" @default.
- W3022971655 creator A5073173674 @default.
- W3022971655 date "2016-01-01" @default.
- W3022971655 modified "2023-09-26" @default.
- W3022971655 title "Gravity Waves" @default.
- W3022971655 doi "https://doi.org/10.1016/b978-0-12-405935-1.00008-3" @default.
- W3022971655 hasPublicationYear "2016" @default.
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