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• W3176588968 abstract "Sustainability arises as a challenge in the last decades and the cosmetic field is not an exception. The search for new cosmetic active principles extracted from food byproducts through eco-innovative technologies has emerged as a novel concept. However, the European Regulation is very restrictive and different assays should be performed to guarantee the products' efficacy and safety. Considering a multidisciplinary approach, this paper aims to compare chestnut shells extracts prepared by three different green techniques – Subcritical Water Extraction (SWE), Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction (UAE) and Supercritical Fluids Extraction (SFE) – regarding antimicrobial activity, hyaluronidase and elastase inhibitory activities, in-vitro cytotoxicity on dermal cells (HaCaT and HFF-1) and skin permeation (using Franz cells coupled to human skin). The best extract was tested on skin and ocular 3D models and through an in-vivo patch test to evaluate its irritancy and safety. The results demonstrated the antimicrobial properties of the extracts (particularly against Staphylococcus aureus ) as well as the capacity to inhibit the hyaluronidase (IC 50 = 0.76–54.36 mg/mL) and elastase (33.56–82.70% at 0.4 mg/mL) activities. Regarding in-vitro cell assays, UAE and SWE extracts revealed the best outcomes. Between 0.1 and 100 μg/mL, none of the extracts conducted to a decrease of cell viability in both cell lines (HaCaT and HFF-1). The ex-vivo assay proved that SWE extract led to a higher polyphenol's permeation (1061.6 μg/g dw), being selected for further assays. Ellagic acid was the major polyphenol that permeated the human skin (732.1–847.0 μg/g dw). The 3D skin and ocular models evidenced absence of irritation by SWE extract, without decreasing cell viability and releasing IL-1α. Finally, an in-vivo patch test confirmed the absence of irritation in humans based on the acute irritation index of 0.50 achieved 24 h after the patch removal. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study that validated by in-vitro and in-vivo assays, and in accordance with the European Regulation 1223/2009, a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells. • Chestnut shells are an environmental hazard rich in bioactive compounds. • Green processes (UAE, SWE and SFE) to extract the bioactive compounds were applied. • Extracts were safety on 3D skin and ocular models. • Ex vivo assays on human skin proved the permeation of bioactive compounds. • In vivo assays evidenced the absence of irritation in human volunteers." @default.
• W3176588968 created "2021-07-05" @default.
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• W3176588968 date "2021-09-01" @default.
• W3176588968 modified "2023-10-18" @default.
• W3176588968 title "From soil to cosmetic industry: Validation of a new cosmetic ingredient extracted from chestnut shells" @default.
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• W3176588968 doi "https://doi.org/10.1016/j.susmat.2021.e00309" @default.
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