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- W3203321081 abstract "The problem of unidirectional shoaling of a water-wave field with a narrow energy spectrum is treated by using a new Alber equation. The stability of the linear stationary solution to small non-stationary disturbances is analysed; and numerical solutions for its subsequent long-distance evolution are presented. The results quantify the physics which causes the gradual decay in the probability of freak-wave occurrence, when moving from deep to shallow coastal waters." @default.
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- W3203321081 date "2021-09-30" @default.
- W3203321081 modified "2023-09-27" @default.
- W3203321081 title "On the Alber equation for shoaling water waves" @default.
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- W3203321081 doi "https://doi.org/10.1017/jfm.2021.808" @default.
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