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- W4249473430 abstract "Run-up of periodic waves on gentle or non-uniform slopes is discussed. Breaking condition and run-up height of non-breaking waves are derived by the use of the linear long wave theory in the Lagrangian description. As to the breaking waves, the width of swash zone and the run-up height are obtained for relatively gentle slopes (less than 1/30), on dividing the transformation of waves into dissipation and swash processes. The formula obtained here agrees with experimental data better than Hunt’s formula does. The same procedure is applied to non-uniform slopes and is found to give better results than Saville’s composite slope method." @default.
- W4249473430 created "2022-05-12" @default.
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- W4249473430 date "1985-11-01" @default.
- W4249473430 modified "2023-09-27" @default.
- W4249473430 title "Run-up of Periodic Waves on Beaches of Non-Uniform Slope" @default.
- W4249473430 doi "https://doi.org/10.1061/9780872624382.024" @default.
- W4249473430 hasPublicationYear "1985" @default.
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