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• W4285370090 abstract "[W]e Find Nowadays Perpetual Disenchantment on the Score of CookeryVictorian Food Writing and Anachronistic Nationalism Alisha R. Walters (bio) Abstract In this paper, I examine early culinary journalism describing French home cookery in British periodicals from 1840–1901. I argue for the symbolic importance of food, and specifically food-related journalism, in the imaginative project of nation building. Such writing provides a largely unexamined record of domestic anxieties about progress during a tumultuous and modernizing period in British history. This body of early food writing uses purportedly genuine—yet deliberately anachronistic—accounts of pre-industrial French cooking to argue for a similar reformation of British domestic habits. These periodical pieces often seek to construct new and exclusive iterations of middle-class identity by creating romantic images of countrified French kitchens that the British middle classes might emulate. French domestic cookery and its apparently unchanged, traditional methods of food preparation serves as an alternate model of domestic improvement for an alarmingly modern Britain—a model based not in industrial futurity but in domestic anachronism. In the arrangements of the little household, Miss Pross took charge of the lower regions, and always acquitted herself marvellously. Her dinners, of a very modest quality, were so well cooked and so well served, and so neat in their contrivances, half English and half French, that nothing could be better. Miss Pross … had ravaged Soho and the adjacent provinces, in search of impoverished French, who, tempted by shillings and half-crowns, would impart culinary mysteries to her. From these decayed sons and daughters of Gaul, she had acquired such wonderful arts, that the woman and girl who formed the staff of domestics regarded her as quite a Sorceress, or Cinderella's Godmother: who would send out for [End Page 225] a fowl, a rabbit, a vegetable or two from the garden, and change them into anything she please. —Charles Dickens, A Tale of Two Cities, All the Year Round, 18 June 1859 introduction: french food and british tastes In chapter 6 of Charles Dickens's A Tale of Two Cities, the novel links the Manette home's staid but cheerful character to the French domestic habits of its female occupants (88).1 For one, Doctor Manette's Frenchborn daughter, Lucy, while she had known nothing of the country of her birth … appeared to have innately derived from it that ability to make much of little means, which is one of its most useful and most agreeable characteristics (89). This reference to domestic economy, or the ability to make much of little means, is perfected in Lucy's faithful attendant, Miss Pross, who, after gleaning culinary secrets from the French exiles in London, can send out for a fowl, a rabbit, a vegetable or two from the garden, and change them into anything she please (95). Pross's culinary economy is both secret—a part of the little-known French culinary mysteries—and exalted to the point of supernaturalness to her English staff, who view Miss Pross as a kind of domestic Sorceress. Dickens's examination of the entwined fates of England and revolutionary France is certainly complex in A Tale of Two Cities, but his extolling of this modest half French model of domestic cookery—however secret—was by no means unique in the mid-nineteenth century. While A Tale of Two Cities considers French cuisine's hidden arts through the register of fiction, much food writing in nineteenth-century periodicals also examines domestic French cookery in great depth. Notably, Miss Pross's mysteries are not modern culinary rites but, rather, techniques learned from the now decayed sons and daughters of Gaul, exiles, whose prior and secret cookery methods belong to a world now removed from Soho. And this valorization of cooking distanced from modern England reflects a much broader trope in Victorian food writing. Many articles in nineteenth-century periodicals suggest that French domestic cookery was superior to its correlate in England, primarily because of the former's customary and unaltered methods of cooking—methods that might prove useful for a modern and de-skilled British populace. In this paper, I examine early culinary journalism describing French home cookery in British periodicals..." @default.
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• W4285370090 date "2021-09-01" @default.
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• W4285370090 title "[W]e Find Nowadays Perpetual Disenchantment on the Score of Cookery: Victorian Food Writing and Anachronistic Nationalism" @default.
• W4285370090 doi "https://doi.org/10.1353/vcr.2021.0031" @default.
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