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- W4366321723 abstract "The statistics of waves in situations that are relatively rarely observed at sea are investigated. The probability and conditions of the occurrence of situations in which the ratio of the maximum crest and maximum trough during the measurement period (ratio R) is less than one are analyzed. The condition $$R < 1$$ means that the trough is larger than the crest. The data of direct wave measurements obtained in the coastal zone of the Black Sea (depth ~ 30 m) were used. It is shown that the average probability of occurrence of values for an ensemble of situations is 13%. It is shown that as the wave steepness $$varepsilon$$ increases, the conditional probability $$P_{varepsilon } = Pleft( {R < 1left| varepsilon right.} right)$$ also increases. The dependence of the conditional probability $$P_{zeta } = Pleft( {R < 1left| zeta right.} right)$$ on the inverse wave age $$zeta$$ is observed only for developing waves at $$zeta > 1.5$$ , at later stages of the wave field development it is absent. There is also a dependence of the probability of occurrence of values on the cumulants of sea surface elevations of the third $$lambda_{3}$$ and fourth $$lambda_{4}$$ orders (skewness and excess kurtosis). When $$lambda_{3}$$ changing from − 0.1 to 0.3, the conditional probability $$P_{lambda 3} = Pleft( {R < 1left| {lambda_{3} } right.} right)$$ increases by about five times, when $$lambda_{4}$$ changing from − 0.4 to 0.4, the conditional probability $$P_{lambda 4} = Pleft( {R < 1left| {lambda_{4} } right.} right)$$ increases by about one and a half times." @default.
- W4366321723 created "2023-04-20" @default.
- W4366321723 creator A5006146988 @default.
- W4366321723 date "2023-01-01" @default.
- W4366321723 modified "2023-10-14" @default.
- W4366321723 title "Abnormal Statistics of Sea Waves" @default.
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- W4366321723 doi "https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-031-25962-3_8" @default.
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