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- W575892016 abstract "Results from a laboratory study of wave breaking in deep-water random seas are presented for approximate JONSWAP sea states. Waves generated at one end of a 116-meter wave tank are observed for breaking at a section of the tank approximately 30 meters from the wave maker and in regions spanning 3 and 6 meters about it. Emphasis is on the relative number of breaking waves observed at the section and in the regions about it, and on the distribution of crest amplitudes observed at the section. Measurements at the section are compared with predictions from a breaking criterion and a modified Rayleigh distribution of crest amplitudes that accounts approximately for non-linear effects in seas with narrow-banded wave frequencies. Active breaking is found to occur when the downward crest acceleration, based on mean wave frequency, equals about one-third the acceleration of gravity. The measured distribution of crest amplitudes in the breaking sea state is found to agree approximately with lower-bound calculations based on the assumption that all breaking waves collapse instantaneously to their equilibrium level. Experimental measurements of breaking in regions about the section are shown to be in good agreement with theoretical predictions relating breaking events over a region to those at a fixed location." @default.
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- W575892016 date "1991-01-01" @default.
- W575892016 modified "2023-09-23" @default.
- W575892016 title "BREAKING WAVES IN DEEP-WATER RANDOM SEAS" @default.
- W575892016 hasPublicationYear "1991" @default.
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