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- W748612206 abstract "The cross-shore variations of surf zone longshore currents and wave heights due to incident random waves are analyzed in this paper. In random wave model. the local reflection coefficient is also evaluated by a new method which is presented for separating the incident and reflected wave height from RMS wave heights. From comparisons of the predicted results with laboratory data and field data, it is found that the variations of random wave height and mean surface displacement near surf zone are accurately predicted by the present random wave model. Also, it is confirmed that the present wave model may be more applicable and accurate for prediction of the local reflection coefficient than the existing models through comparisons with measured data. In addition, the transport equation for mean turbulent kinetic energy created by wave breaking are introduced into the mean longshore current model to examine the contribution of the turbulent momentum transport. It is found that the longshore current model including the effect of turbulent momentum transport may correctly predict the surf zone longshore currents for random waves through comparison with the measured data. In particular, the predictive accuracy of the longshore current model for evaluating the current velocity may be improved by consideration of the effect of turbulent momentum transport on a barred beach rather than a uniformly sloping beach. However, further studies should be continued since there are still some differences between the predicted results and measured data on a barred profile." @default.
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- W748612206 title "Prediction of Wave Height and Longshore Current due to the Random Waves near Surfzone" @default.
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